Maly Prospect of the Petrograd Side is located not far from Bolshoi Prospekt and follows the same direction. It started like this. In the 1720s, a road was built to the settlements of the Yamburg, Koporsky and St. Petersburg garrison regiments. They called it Petrovskaya Street, then the Middle Garrison Road. Each regiment inhabited the area allocated to it in its own way, therefore the nature of the development of the street is heterogeneous, and its trajectory has kinks.
The avenue begins from the Zhdanovka River. Petrovsky Stadium is already on the other side.

On the left hand there is a small house built in 1826.

The tall building opposite it was erected in 1913. In the 1920s, its tenant was F.K. Sologub, a poet, prose writer and playwright, who organized literary “Evenings on Zhdanovka” in his apartment. In 1925 - 1928, the writer A.N. Tolstoy, who returned from emigration, lived here. “Azlita”, “Walking in Torment”, “Hyperboloid of Engineer Garin” were created in this house.

The building next door (1916). By the way, the pies at the Pie Yard are not bad. You can take it with you, it will come in handy...

Let's look into the yard. The usual option for St. Petersburg, when the first gateway is followed by the second...

Who said that you can’t see the sky in well-yards? It’s here, you just need to lift your head higher...

Front garden at house No. 12 (1903).

The small mansion dates back to 1873, when it was built for the Turkish citizen Ahmet Tantawi. For some time, there was a brothel in apartment 1. One of the next owners, A.N. Kopec, slightly remodeled the building. Her last name appeared on the facade (still preserved, located above the door). From 1917 to 1924, a circle of intellectuals gathered here, eager to talk about the fate of Russia (a popular topic even today). The meetings were held under the motto “Christ and Freedom.” For lovers of conversation, it all ended quite quickly, and precisely with lack of freedom. Various durations...

New building. There are not many of them.

A huge painting on a blank wall of the house. There are a lot of them in St. Petersburg. Can you imagine how many ready-made canvases there are! Artists, get ready!
- Tell me please, did this picture appear a long time ago?
- No, three years ago. Now the nearby children's playground is being remodeled in the style of that era...

Classical gymnasium No. 610. The building was built in 1939.

Let's look around at the crossroads.

Corner with Malaya Grebetskaya Street (house built in 1897). Grebetskaya Sloboda, numbering several Grebetskaya streets (only one remains), served as a place of residence for the rowers of the galley fleet.

The building of the former Mariinsky obstetric institution. Built in 1889 on the site of a two-story wooden one.

Apartment house built in 1910. In one of the front doors, ancient stained glass windows have been preserved.

House of merchant I. I. Chvanov, owner of several trading and drinking establishments. (1900). There was a tavern in it, which was called "Maly Chvanov", in contrast to "Big Chvanov", a restaurant on Bolshoy Prospekt. To the Great Patriotic War half the building was destroyed. They did not restore it. The house became shorter along Maly Prospekt.

It was continued by a modern building located before the first turn.

Let's look back. At the end of the street you can make out the outline of the stadium.

The Z-shaped bend on Maly Prospekt appeared due to the fact that it was necessary to bypass the structures that existed on this site. This is a small area perpendicular to the rest of the street. All buildings from the early 20th century.

New building on the opposite side of the street.

The next turn is worth a closer look. The five-story building was erected in 1908 by the Association for the Construction of Commercial School Housing.

The facade is richly decorated. There is a girl on the ball.

The buildings opposite (1912).

Crossroads. Bolshaya Zelenina Street went left.

Maly Prospekt makes another bend. Small this time. This is connected, again, with the border between the territories given over to regimental settlements. The seven-story house, 1914, was built for staff captain I. I. Braduchan.

Former Primorsky collective farm market. Built in 1955. Before this, the territory was occupied by the Deryabkin market (so called after the surname of the main tenant). Also, a significant share of the market premises was occupied by A.P. Leifert, the owner of booths located on the Champ de Mars.

Interspersed with a new building.

Intersection with Gatchinskaya Street. Apartment house of A. Ya. Vasilyeva (1903).

And another one, built in 1913.

A significant part of the streets crossed are quiet corners, because... Transit transport rarely enters them.

Outdoor courtyard. (There is no house facing Maly Prospekt. The reasons for its absence may be different).

Another new building.

Apartment house of I.F. Alushinsky, 1908. On one side it faces Lenin Street.

Another new building. I think it fits in well...

Walks along the Petrograd side

Wherever a wave or a fast train rocks me,

I would like to see, even in a dream, the Petrograd side.

How I want to return to the shores of my youth,

Where, as if in a mirror, bridges look into the blue Neva...

Recently I talked about my favorite street - Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt.
And now I would like to invite you for a walk through one of the districts of St. Petersburg - along Petrograd side, Petrogradsky district (where Kamennoostrovsky Avenue is located).

The area is located on eight islands ( Zayachiy, Kronverksky, Petrogradsky, Aptekarsky, Petrovsky, Kamenny, Elagin, Krestovsky).
All the islands of the Petrograd region are connected with each other by fifteen bridges.
Petrogradsky and Aptekarsky islands are Petrograd side or Petrogradka. And the last three - Islands(or Kirov Islands), - a recreation area.

Let's start our walk.

The Petrograd side is the oldest part of the city on the Neva.

We all remember these lines:

From here we will threaten the Swede,

The city will be founded here

To spite an arrogant neighbor.

Nature destined us here

Open a window to Europe...

Yes, it was here that Peter the Great began to “cut a window to Europe”, began to rebuild new city. St. Petersburg began with the Peter and Paul Fortress, and we will begin our walk from here.
View of the fortress. Behind the canal - Kronverk

The fortress was founded May 16 (27), 1703 on the island of Yenisaari (Hare).
In 1703 Hare Island was connected to the Petrograd side Ioannovsky Bridge, the first in the city.
May 29, 1703, in day of the apostles Peter and Paul, they began to build a temple in the fortress - Peter and Paul Cathedral. This day became the name day of the fortress, which has since been called " St. Petersburg". Its name spread throughout the city.
Cathedral (this photo is mine)


The existing cathedral building in the Peter the Great Baroque style was built according to the design of architect. Trezzini. The cathedral houses the tomb of Russian emperors.
Cathedral height 122.5 m., this is the most tall building St. Petersburg.
Cathedral and its spire with an angel - symbols of the city.

Angel

Angel of the Petrograd side

Infected by the Baltic winds,

He is in love with bridges and gray stone,

Worn down by the tides of the moon.

Walking along the cobblestone streets of the fortress, you feel as if you are stepping back into the 18th century...
A signal cannon is fired every day from the Naryshkin bastion of the fortress.
Now the fortress is part of Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, excursions and exhibitions are held here. On the beach of the fortress, city holidays, festivals of ice and sand figures are held, and in the summer there are a lot of sunbathers near the walls of the old bastions.

On a separate Kronverk Island there was Kronverk - the external fortification of the Peter and Paul Fortress. In the first photo it is a horseshoe-shaped, red building surrounded by a crown-shaped canal. (“Kronwerk” in German means “fortification in the form of a crown”).
Now Kronverk - Artillery (Military History) Museum. In the courtyard of the museum there are over 200 tanks, guns, self-propelled guns and missile systems... - and children climb on them for fun (it was like that before, I don’t know how it is now).

Another photo walk through the fortress and Alexander Park is here

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Fountains on the Neva


On the Neva, near the fortress, there are fountains right on the water. There are 700 jets, up to 60 meters high.

Trinity Bridge- one of the most beautiful bridges across the Neva. Opened in 1903 for the 200th anniversary of St. Petersburg.

More details about the bridge and the bunny at the Peter and Paul Fortress here:

Walking along Kamennoostrovsky part 1

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The plan of this part of the city will show where our walk takes place

Trinity Square

To the right of the Trinity Bridge, on Trinity Square, on the site of the destroyed Trinity Cathedral, in 2003 a small one was erected Trinity Chapel.


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Petrovskaya embankment- the first embankment of St. Petersburg. It is here in May 1703 year was built Peter the Great's house- the very first building in the city Back in 1721, for safety, the house was dressed in a case-gallery.


The first St. Petersburg port was located near the house of Peter I, which was later transferred to the spit of Vasilievsky Island, and then to Gutuevsky Island.

Not far from Peter's house, on the site of the first St. Petersburg pier, the descent to the Neva is decorated with mythological Chinese lions Shih Tzu(lions-frogs).


The lions were brought to St. Petersburg from the city of Girin in Manchuria in 1907.

At the intersection of Petrovskaya and Petrogradskaya embankments we see a beautiful building in the Petrine Baroque style - this Nakhimov School. And the ship next to it is legendary" Aurora". Now the Aurora houses a school training base and a museum.


The building was erected in the fall of 1910 by architect. Dmitriev, in developing the project for the interiors and decoration of the building, Dmitriev involved artists from the World of Art, led by A. N. Benois.
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During the walk we will see not only well-known sights, but also little-known ones.

Here, not far from the Aurora, on the Petrogradskaya embankment stands this unusual monument to one of the industrialists of St. Petersburg. Can you guess who?

This is a monument Alfred Nobel. The location was not chosen by chance; opposite is the Russian Diesel plant, which belonged to the Nobel family.
This expressive monument depicts an explosion, it was erected on the initiative of the Nobel Foundation (Sweden) and the International Foundation for the History of Science in 1989.
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Now let's take a look at the nearby X-ray street.
Our attention is drawn to a mansion in the Art Nouveau style - Chaev's house(house 9).
Architect Apyshkov created in 1907 one of best works Petersburg Art Nouveau.


Now the building is a dental clinic.
I talked about Chaev’s mansion here:

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Another interesting house on this street, No. 4 - G.F.'s house Eulers.
Eilers is the largest gardener and flower dealer; his store “opposite the Kazan Cathedral” is sung by the poet Silver Age Agnivtsev.
In this house, sculptures of children - putti near the arch - attract attention.

The building was built in the “northern modern” style by the son of the owner K.G. Eilers. The famous architect F.I. took part in the development of the project. Lidval.
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Returning to Trinity Square.
Near Alexander Park and Trinity Square we see Kshesinskaya mansion.
Arch designed in 1904 . von Gauguin the mansion was considered one of the most respectable of its time.


To February Revolution There was a popular salon in the house of the prima ballerina of the Mariinsky Theater Matilda Kshesinskaya. Balls and receptions were held here, attended by representatives of the imperial family and the artistic elite of St. Petersburg.
In July 1917, Lenin spoke from the balcony of the mansion. The Museum of the Revolution was located here, and now it is museum Political history
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Near the Kshesinskaya Palace there are Cathedral Mosque.
It was built in 1913 at the expense of the Emir of Bukhara.
The architecture of the mosque uses motifs from Central Asian architecture.


The dome of the mosque resembles the dome of the famous mausoleum Gur-Emir in Samarkand(15th century), and the shape and beautiful patterns of the entrance portal were borrowed from the mausoleum Shahi Zinda.

My God, how I love, how I love coming home...
Like reading the license plates of Leningrad cars like a prayer,
And meet with my native Petrograd at the old mosque,
Flying through the white nights of an intoxicated soul...
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Alexandrovsky Park
Next to the Peter and Paul Fortress lies the Alexander Park, surrounding the crown of the Peter and Paul Fortress from the north.
Alexandrovsky Park is bounded from the north by Kronverksky Avenue, which goes around the park in an arc.

Let's take a walk in the park.

In 1903, a granite grotto with a viewing platform at the top and a cafe below.


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The building of the Orthopedic Institute was founded in 1902 on the initiative of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. 1902-1906 - architect. Meltzer R.F.
The façade is decorated with one of the earliest majolicas on St. Petersburg buildings - the image of “The Virgin and Child,” made according to a sketch by K. S. Petrov-Vodkin in 1904.

"The Virgin and Child" - the first work of K. Petrov-Vodkin. Architect Roman Meltzer found a talented boy on the Volga who painted signs, and brought him to St. Petersburg.
Now the Orthopedic Institute is in a different place, and the Academy of Justice is located here.
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Mini city

We will see the Mini-City architectural complex in the southern part of Alexander Park, behind the Gorkovskaya metro station. It was opened in May 2011.
The complex includes small copies of the main St. Petersburg attractions on a scale of 1:33. These are the ensembles of Palace and Senate Squares, the Peter and Paul Fortress, Kazan and St. Isaac's Cathedrals, Mikhailovsky Castle, etc.
Photos and collage are mine.

There are many more in Alexander Park interesting places and entertainment. There are museums, exhibitions, and theaters here...

People's House
In December 1900 in Alexandrovsky Park was opened People's House Emperor Nicholas II.
It was a complex with a central lobby under a glass dome and a Theater Hall on the left and an Iron Hall for concerts on the right, designed by architect. Lyutsedarsky. In 1910, the Opera Hall was added to the right wing.
Now they are located here theater "Baltic House", Planetarium and Music Hall.
The Theater is a building with columns, the Music Hall is with a dome, and the Planetarium is in the middle, with a small dome.


If we walk through the park from the Gorkovskaya metro station along Kronverksky Prospekt, the first thing we see is the theater "Baltic House" until 1991 - Lenin Komsomol Theater.
The theater building was built on the site of the left wing (theater hall) of the former People's House, which burned down in 1932. This is a theater festival, where international stage festivals and forums are held annually.

The right wing (Opera Hall) is now occupied "Music Hall" and previously the cinema " Giant", the largest in the city. Back in the 70s, next to the “Giant” there was a “Stereokino” cinema.
Music hall


By the way, a new cinema complex “Giant” is currently being built next to the Baltic House theater, which will combine 6 cinema halls, a restaurant and offices.

In the middle part of the former People's House - Planetarium, opened in 1959.
In the Star Hall The planetarium is breathtaking to see starry sky over your head.

In the hall " Space travel » you can take part in interactive programs, become crew members spaceship. There is also a small astronomical observatory in the Planetarium.
And in the exhibition Laboratory of Entertaining Experiments- experiments in optics, electricity, time measurement, famous Foucault pendulum.
The laboratory was created on the principles Houses of entertaining science, organized back in 1935 in Leningrad Ya.I. Perelman, author of a famous series of popular science books (“ Entertaining physics", "Entertaining astronomy" etc.).
More details: http://www.planetary-spb.ru/
(There is a similar science museum (“LabyrinthUm”) in another place on the Petrograd side, but more on that later, in part 2).
Available in the Planetarium and hall of dinosaurs. Also valid wax exhibitions. One exhibition is of historical figures, the other is of movie characters (Shrek, Avatar, Jack Sparrow...).
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Children's Museum-Theater " Fairytale House» located next to the Music Hall and the Zoo. The scenery and characters of Russian and foreign fairy tales are recreated here.
The modern interactive format allows children to immerse themselves in a fairy-tale atmosphere, become participants in events and communicate with their favorite characters.

And here is ours Zoo
Construction of a new Zoo has now begun, but for now it is here - in the city center.


A story about a walk through the Zoo here:

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We walked along the arc of Alexander Park, and came out to the Neva and Dobrolyubov Ave.
Just a year ago, here, not far from Birzhevoy Bridge, the institute’s buildings stood Giprokhim with a “chemical” panel.
Giprokhim

But the buildings were demolished and the “Embankment of Europe” complex is being built on this site...
Let's walk along Dobrolyubova Avenue from Birzhevoy to Tuchkov Bridge.

Prince Vladimir Cathedral. 1789 arch. Rinaldi.

Fountain opposite the cathedral Sports Palace "Yubileiny""


Petrovsky Stadium located at Tuchkov Bridge, on Petrovsky Island.
Matches take place here Zenit, During these hours, traffic stops...


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Neva fountains at night


I was born on the Petrograd side,
I need meetings with her like bread,
Everything here is close to me, everything is clear to me:
The bends of the beloved Peter and Paul Fortress,
The Neva Current, a labyrinth of courtyards...

I could wander here until sunset...
The great city of Petrov began
Once upon a time on these very shores...

http://walkspb.ru/ulpl/kamennoostr_pr.html
And Wikipedia
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Instead of a certificate
Petrogradsky district

The number of residents of the district as of October 14, 2010 was 130 417 people, including the working population 63%, retirement age 24%, children and adolescents - 13%.
In terms of population, it is the smallest of the urban areas, but not in importance.
We remember that our city began here, in addition, many important objects for the city are located here.

There are 51 cultural institutions in the area, including: Museum of City History (Peter and Paul Fortress), Lenfilm film studio, TV studio, Planetarium, Theater Baltic House, St. Petersburg Music Hall, Leningrad Zoo. Botanical Garden , D.K. them. Lensovet, Leningrad Youth Palace, Museum of Artillery, Museum of Political History.
The two largest city parks are Central Park of Culture and Culture and Primorsky Victory Park.

The region contains the largest medical centers world significance: 1st Medical University them. Academician I.P. Pavlov, Research Institute of Experimental Medicine, Research Institute of Children's Infections, Institute of Human Brain of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Research Institute of Influenza of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences.
The area also contains higher educational institutions : St. Petersburg GUITMO, LETI, Chemical-Pharmaceutical Academy, Military Space Academy them. Mozhaisky, Nakhimov School, cadet corps them. Peter the Great.

Located in the Petrogradsky district 5 Orthodox churches and the only Muslim one in the city mosque.
There are many in the area sports facilities, including 7 stadiums: Petrovsky, Yubileiny, SKA and others; 8 swimming pools, 2 sports palaces, 14 indoor tennis courts, 2 yacht clubs, 6 rowing clubs, 2 equestrian centers.
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The Petrograd side is the territory that includes Petrogradsky, Zayachiy, Aptekarsky and Petrovsky islands. This is one of the most beautiful and interesting areas of the historical center for walking.

It is interesting that in Peter’s time it was here that the city began to be built: on the future Petrograd side, Peter himself lived, Governing Senate and collegiums. True, quite quickly the courtyard and institutions moved to the other bank of the Neva, and the status of the area immediately changed: until the beginning of the 20th century, the St. Petersburg side was almost a suburb, with wooden houses and gardens.

Everything changed again in 1903, when the Trinity Bridge connected the St. Petersburg side and the center. Over the next 10 years, the St. Petersburg side became the most fashionable and actively developing area of ​​the city: until the First World War, 200 multi-storey buildings were built here per year! That is why Petrogradka, especially Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt, is a real “monument” to the Art Nouveau style: in those 10-15 years that the avenue was being built, this architectural style reigned in the minds of architects and clients. This “rapid development” also led to another feature of the Petrograd side: since some areas between the houses did not have time to be developed in 15 years, parks later appeared in them (however, in our time, developers are actively making up for lost time - to the detriment of the parks).

Inspecting all the sights of the Petrograd side would take more than one week, but we will try to talk about the most interesting of them (including little-known ones, since the Peter and Paul Fortress or the Leningrad Zoo, I think, don’t need introductions anyway)..

In Alexander Park you can find a small “miniature park”: copies of the main St. Petersburg attractions on a scale of 1:33. There is a small Kazan Cathedral, and St. Isaac's, and Palace Square, and the Peter and Paul Fortress. And next to it are sculptures of Rastrelli, Rossi, Trezzini, Montferrand, Voronikhin and Thomas de Thomon, sitting at the same table.

The museum is located in the former Arsenal - a gloomy red-brick building in the shape of a horseshoe. The square in front of the museum is adored by all the male children: it is all filled with cannons, rocket launchers and self-propelled guns.

An ultra-modern building at that time with a solarium, a shop, a restaurant, a kindergarten and a club was built in 1933 for members of the Society of Former Political Prisoners and Exiled Settlers. The residents were mainly Mensheviks and Socialist Revolutionaries, who had once been imprisoned in tsarist prisons. However, the happiness did not last long: already in 1935 the Society was closed, the families were evicted, and most of the adult residents were arrested again.

Not only the museum itself is noteworthy, but also the two mansions in which it is located: the stunningly beautiful Brandt mansion with its wrought iron gates and an amazing hanging lantern in the courtyard arch, and the Kshesinskaya mansion.

The first home of Peter I in St. Petersburg, carefully preserved to this day in its original form thanks to a stone “case”. The house itself is striking in its modesty: small, wooden, consisting of three rooms and a hallway. The exhibition includes authentic things of Peter I and household items from the Peter I era.

The apartment building of the First Russian Insurance Company, better known as the Benois House, occupies an entire block. It was built according to the design of three representatives of the legendary family - brothers Leonty and Albert and their cousin Julius Benois. The house is famous for its most interesting appearance and a huge branched system of passage yards.

Austrian Square

The octagonal square at the intersection of Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt and Mira Street really looks most like a piece of an old European town. It was named Austrian recently, in 1992: before that, the square had no name at all. Interestingly, after the square received its name, it was planned to open Austrian shops, cafes, a pharmacy, and even place Austrian trash cans here. Unfortunately, the project was not implemented, but the square is still beautiful.

To save this cozy public garden, which was given over for development, an initiative group of musicians, writers and artists planted personalized trees in it. Later, amazing violin sculptures appeared, scattered throughout the park: an apple violin, a shoe violin, a woman violin, a gramophone violin, even two sphinx violins. In the center there is a concert platform in the shape of a violin, where concerts take place.

House with towers

Even among the amazingly beautiful houses of Kamennoostrovsky, the House with Towers stands out: the facade facing Leo Tolstoy Square is decorated with hexagonal towers in the style of medieval English castles. The windows are decorated with bright platbands, located asymmetrically and have the most different shapes. On the ground floor of the House with Towers the theater “Russian Entreprise named after Andrei Mironov” operates today.

Victor Tsoi Square

The nameless square on the corner of Zverinskaya Street and Lyubansky Lane is now officially called Viktor Tsoi Square. The location was not chosen by chance: nearby is the legendary Kamchatka boiler house, where Tsoi worked as a fireman, and now there is a club-museum.

A small but very atmospheric museum, opened in the building of the East European Institute. In the first hall there are simply information display cases telling about the life and works of Freud. The most interesting thing begins in the second room: this is the dream room. The museum often holds interesting lectures, exhibitions, and discussion clubs.


The meeting took place in a warm and friendly atmosphere. At first glance, there are no casualties or destruction. We walked along the “Champs Elysees of St. Petersburg,” as many art historians and local historians call Kamennoostrovsky Avenue... I consider it the most beautiful avenue in the city, because it consists almost entirely of buildings in the Art Nouveau style. And we went into the courtyards and into some interesting entrances)))))) we went on an “excursion” inside the Cathedral Mosque, which I had long wanted to do, but it still didn’t work out.
This post will be the main one on the adventure game. There will be three big posts about her. As new posts appear about the places we looked at, I will add links to them here and in other parts and they will become reviews of the January wandering.

We met in the lobby of the Petrogradskaya metro station.

Six people attended the meeting... what to do, the flu is decimating our ranks. Some did not come due to illness. But I immediately asked those who doubt it is better not to come, not to infect others.

DK Lensoveta. In 1910, on this site, the Sporting Palace, a beautiful building with columns, housed a cinema, a restaurant, a concert hall and a roller skating hall - a “skating ring”.
The existing building was built in 1931-1938 according to the design of E. Levinson and V. Muntz in the constructivist style, during the reconstruction of the Sporting Palace. Then the building of the Industrial Cooperation House of Culture appeared with a high tower in the form of a rectangular pipe, which were fashionable in the 30s. People called him "Promka". The real façade was rebuilt in the 70s, the chimney-shaped tower was demolished, but it’s a pity...

There is a flood on the street))) especially in the parks.

The monument to Popov was unveiled in March 1959 on the 100th anniversary of the scientist’s birth. The height of the figure is 4 meters (sculptor V. Ya. Bogolyubov, after his death in 1954 it was completed by V. V. Isaeva). The height of the pedestal is 3.6 meters (architect N.V. Baranov).

House of the Emir of Bukhara. Dangerous house...))))) this is an allusion to ISIS...

Silin Bridge.

Previously it was called Pionersky, but now its old name has been returned to it. Although the bridge was completely rebuilt and changed from wooden to reinforced concrete. They could have kept the Soviet name.

Literatorov Street.

Mansion A.E. Molchanova - M.G. Savina. st. There are 17 writers. The artist Maria Gavrilovna Savina lived and died in this house, built according to the design of the Russian architect Mikhail Fedorovich Geisler in 1905 - 1907 by order of her husband M.G. Savina - the founder and chairman of the Russian Theater Society Anatoly Evgrafovich Molchanov. The building is an outstanding monument of Art Nouveau.

I will write a separate post about the house.

Again the embankment of the Karpovka River.

I have already written about this elite house for the Soviet nomenklatura))) its lower part is covered with gravestones, more details and apartment layout are below under the link...

View of the Peter and Paul Bridge and

There's a sea of ​​ducks here...

The ice is cracking as if spring has arrived.

View of the nomenklatura house from the Peter and Paul Bridge.

Entrance to the corner house of Baranovskaya))) detailed post about the house and the entrance.

We go out to Leo Tolstoy Square.

Since the mid-19th century, the site where Rosenstein's house is located today has belonged to various owners. In 1895, there was a velodrome here, where up to ten thousand people came on the days of major competitions. In winter, the Northern Ice Rink was located on this site, on the ice of which in 1898 the first bandy match in Russia took place, then perhaps the first football match.

The apartments in the building had gas stoves, sunken bathtubs, heaters for drying towels, and built-in wardrobes; There was also a garage in the courtyard of the house.

The house houses the Russian Entreprise Theater named after Andrei Mironov. Andrei Mironov himself never acted in the theater, but interesting fact- before the revolution, the mortgage on this house was owned by Andrei Mironov’s grandfather. The apartments here, by those standards, were super comfortable: gas stoves, sunken bathtubs, heaters for drying towels, built-in wardrobes - then all this was a novelty.

Near the square we had a break for a get-together or for lunch)))))

Stolle pies are delicious, but also expensive...

Garden with the Nizami monument.

The bench is wonderful with quotes from Nizami. I’ll write more about the garden.

We walked around Andrei Petrov's garden. The place is interesting, on the one hand there is Nizami Park in Kamennoostrovsky... on the other side there is the composer Petrov (he wrote many works, including for cinema). Sphinxes in the shape of a violin...

The square is full of fabulous instruments... at the entrance there are sphinxes-violins, bas-reliefs-monuments to Salvador Dali, Daniil Kharms, Dmitry Shostakovich and Dmitry Likhachev (the first image appeared in 2002).

Another house and yard that we inspected... "The House of the Three Benois")))
This was once the most modern, coolly equipped house in Russia. It had its own garage, shops, fireplace and even a laundry.

Here in the center stood a church in the name of the Holy Apostle Matthew and the Intercession Holy Mother of God. You can see the elevation on the left in the photo - this is the foundation of the church. Alas, demolished...

Eh... but most of all I feel sorry for this lost building of N. Benoit - the Lutheran Church of St. Mary, which was located a little further...

Walks along the Petrograd side

Wherever a wave or a fast train rocks me,

I would like to see, even in a dream, the Petrograd side.

How I want to return to the shores of my youth,

Where, as if in a mirror, bridges look into the blue Neva...

Recently I talked about my favorite street - Kamennoostrovsky Prospekt.
And now I would like to invite you for a walk through one of the districts of St. Petersburg - along Petrograd side, Petrogradsky district (where Kamennoostrovsky Avenue is located).

The area is located on eight islands ( Zayachiy, Kronverksky, Petrogradsky, Aptekarsky, Petrovsky, Kamenny, Elagin, Krestovsky).
All the islands of the Petrograd region are connected with each other by fifteen bridges.
Petrogradsky and Aptekarsky islands are Petrograd side or Petrogradka. And the last three - Islands(or Kirov Islands), - a recreation area.

Let's start our walk.

The Petrograd side is the oldest part of the city on the Neva.

We all remember these lines:

From here we will threaten the Swede,

The city will be founded here

To spite an arrogant neighbor.

Nature destined us here

Open a window to Europe...

Yes, it was here that Peter the Great began to “cut a window to Europe” and began to rebuild a new city. St. Petersburg began with the Peter and Paul Fortress, and we will begin our walk from here.
View of the fortress. Behind the canal - Kronverk

The fortress was founded May 16 (27), 1703 on the island of Yenisaari (Hare).
In 1703 Hare Island was connected to the Petrograd side Ioannovsky Bridge, the first in the city.
May 29, 1703, in day of the apostles Peter and Paul, they began to build a temple in the fortress - Peter and Paul Cathedral. This day became the name day of the fortress, which has since been called " St. Petersburg". Its name spread throughout the city.
Cathedral (this photo is mine)


The existing cathedral building in the Peter the Great Baroque style was built according to the design of architect. Trezzini. The cathedral houses the tomb of Russian emperors.
Cathedral height 122.5 m., this is the tallest building in St. Petersburg.
Cathedral and its spire with an angel - symbols of the city.

Angel

Angel of the Petrograd side

Infected by the Baltic winds,

He is in love with bridges and gray stone,

Worn down by the tides of the moon.

Walking along the cobblestone streets of the fortress, you feel as if you are stepping back into the 18th century...
A signal cannon is fired every day from the Naryshkin bastion of the fortress.
Now the fortress is part of Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, excursions and exhibitions are held here. On the beach of the fortress, city holidays, festivals of ice and sand figures are held, and in the summer there are a lot of sunbathers near the walls of the old bastions.

On a separate Kronverk Island there was Kronverk - the external fortification of the Peter and Paul Fortress. In the first photo it is a horseshoe-shaped, red building surrounded by a crown-shaped canal. (“Kronwerk” in German means “fortification in the form of a crown”).
Now Kronverk - Artillery (Military History) Museum. In the courtyard of the museum there are over 200 tanks, guns, self-propelled guns and missile systems... - and children climb on them for fun (it was like that before, I don’t know how it is now).

Another photo walk through the fortress and Alexander Park is here

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Fountains on the Neva


On the Neva, near the fortress, there are fountains right on the water. There are 700 jets, up to 60 meters high.

Trinity Bridge- one of the most beautiful bridges across the Neva. Opened in 1903 for the 200th anniversary of St. Petersburg.

More details about the bridge and the bunny at the Peter and Paul Fortress here:

Walking along Kamennoostrovsky part 1

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The plan of this part of the city will show where our walk takes place

Trinity Square

To the right of the Trinity Bridge, on Trinity Square, on the site of the destroyed Trinity Cathedral, in 2003 a small one was erected Trinity Chapel.


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Petrovskaya embankment- the first embankment of St. Petersburg. It is here in May 1703 year was built Peter the Great's house- the very first building in the city Back in 1721, for safety, the house was dressed in a case-gallery.


The first St. Petersburg port was located near the house of Peter I, which was later transferred to the spit of Vasilievsky Island, and then to Gutuevsky Island.

Not far from Peter's house, on the site of the first St. Petersburg pier, the descent to the Neva is decorated with mythological Chinese lions Shih Tzu(lions-frogs).


The lions were brought to St. Petersburg from the city of Girin in Manchuria in 1907.

At the intersection of Petrovskaya and Petrogradskaya embankments we see a beautiful building in the Petrine Baroque style - this Nakhimov School. And the ship next to it is legendary" Aurora". Now the Aurora houses a school training base and a museum.


The building was erected in the fall of 1910 by architect. Dmitriev, in developing the project for the interiors and decoration of the building, Dmitriev involved artists from the World of Art, led by A. N. Benois.
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During the walk we will see not only well-known sights, but also little-known ones.

Here, not far from the Aurora, on the Petrogradskaya embankment stands this unusual monument to one of the industrialists of St. Petersburg. Can you guess who?

This is a monument Alfred Nobel. The location was not chosen by chance; opposite is the Russian Diesel plant, which belonged to the Nobel family.
This expressive monument depicts an explosion, it was erected on the initiative of the Nobel Foundation (Sweden) and the International Foundation for the History of Science in 1989.
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Now let's take a look at the nearby X-ray street.
Our attention is drawn to a mansion in the Art Nouveau style - Chaev's house(house 9).
Architect Apyshkov created in 1907 one of the best works of St. Petersburg Art Nouveau.


Now the building is a dental clinic.
I talked about Chaev’s mansion here:

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Another interesting house on this street, No. 4 - G.F.'s house Eulers.
Eilers is the largest gardener and flower dealer; his store “opposite the Kazan Cathedral” was glorified by the Silver Age poet Agnivtsev.
In this house, sculptures of children - putti near the arch - attract attention.

The building was built in the “northern modern” style by the son of the owner K.G. Eilers. The famous architect F.I. took part in the development of the project. Lidval.
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Returning to Trinity Square.
Near Alexander Park and Trinity Square we see Kshesinskaya mansion.
Arch designed in 1904 . von Gauguin the mansion was considered one of the most respectable of its time.


Before the February Revolution, there was a popular salon in the house of prima ballerina of the Mariinsky Theater Matilda Kshesinskaya. Balls and receptions were held here, attended by representatives of the imperial family and the artistic elite of St. Petersburg.
In July 1917, Lenin spoke from the balcony of the mansion. The Museum of the Revolution was located here, and now it is Museum of Political History
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Near the Kshesinskaya Palace there are Cathedral Mosque.
It was built in 1913 at the expense of the Emir of Bukhara.
The architecture of the mosque uses motifs from Central Asian architecture.


The dome of the mosque resembles the dome of the famous mausoleum Gur-Emir in Samarkand(15th century), and the shape and beautiful patterns of the entrance portal were borrowed from the mausoleum Shahi Zinda.

My God, how I love, how I love coming home...
Like reading the license plates of Leningrad cars like a prayer,
And meet with my native Petrograd at the old mosque,
Flying through the white nights of an intoxicated soul...
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Alexandrovsky Park
Next to the Peter and Paul Fortress lies the Alexander Park, surrounding the crown of the Peter and Paul Fortress from the north.
Alexandrovsky Park is bounded from the north by Kronverksky Avenue, which goes around the park in an arc.

Let's take a walk in the park.

In 1903, a granite grotto with a viewing platform at the top and a cafe below.


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The building of the Orthopedic Institute was founded in 1902 on the initiative of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. 1902-1906 - architect. Meltzer R.F.
The façade is decorated with one of the earliest majolicas on St. Petersburg buildings - the image of “The Virgin and Child,” made according to a sketch by K. S. Petrov-Vodkin in 1904.

"The Virgin and Child" - the first work of K. Petrov-Vodkin. Architect Roman Meltzer found a talented boy on the Volga who painted signs, and brought him to St. Petersburg.
Now the Orthopedic Institute is in a different place, and the Academy of Justice is located here.
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Mini city

We will see the Mini-City architectural complex in the southern part of Alexander Park, behind the Gorkovskaya metro station. It was opened in May 2011.
The complex includes small copies of the main St. Petersburg attractions on a scale of 1:33. These are the ensembles of Palace and Senate Squares, the Peter and Paul Fortress, Kazan and St. Isaac's Cathedrals, Mikhailovsky Castle, etc.
Photos and collage are mine.

There are many more interesting places and entertainment in Alexander Park. There are museums, exhibitions, and theaters here...

People's House
In December 1900 in Alexandrovsky Park was opened People's House Emperor Nicholas II.
It was a complex with a central lobby under a glass dome and a Theater Hall on the left and an Iron Hall for concerts on the right, designed by architect. Lyutsedarsky. In 1910, the Opera Hall was added to the right wing.
Now they are located here theater "Baltic House", Planetarium and Music Hall.
The Theater is a building with columns, the Music Hall is with a dome, and the Planetarium is in the middle, with a small dome.


If we walk through the park from the Gorkovskaya metro station along Kronverksky Prospekt, the first thing we see is the theater "Baltic House" until 1991 - Lenin Komsomol Theater.
The theater building was built on the site of the left wing (theater hall) of the former People's House, which burned down in 1932. This is a theater festival, where international stage festivals and forums are held annually.

The right wing (Opera Hall) is now occupied "Music Hall" and previously the cinema " Giant", the largest in the city. Back in the 70s, next to the “Giant” there was a “Stereokino” cinema.
Music hall


By the way, a new cinema complex “Giant” is currently being built next to the Baltic House theater, which will combine 6 cinema halls, a restaurant and offices.

In the middle part of the former People's House - Planetarium, opened in 1959.
In the Star Hall The planetarium will take your breath away from the contemplation of the starry sky above your head.

In the hall " Space travel“You can take part in interactive programs and become members of a spaceship crew. There is also a small astronomical observatory in the Planetarium.
And in the exhibition Laboratory of Entertaining Experiments- experiments in optics, electricity, time measurement, famous Foucault pendulum.
The laboratory was created on the principles Houses of entertaining science, organized back in 1935 in Leningrad Ya.I. Perelman, author of a well-known series of popular science books (“Entertaining Physics”, “Entertaining Astronomy”, etc.).
More details: http://www.planetary-spb.ru/
(There is a similar science museum (“LabyrinthUm”) in another place on the Petrograd side, but more on that later, in part 2).
Available in the Planetarium and hall of dinosaurs. Also valid wax exhibitions. One exhibition is of historical figures, the other is of movie characters (Shrek, Avatar, Jack Sparrow...).
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Children's Museum-Theater " Fairytale House» located next to the Music Hall and the Zoo. The scenery and characters of Russian and foreign fairy tales are recreated here.
The modern interactive format allows children to immerse themselves in a fairy-tale atmosphere, become participants in events and communicate with their favorite characters.

And here is ours Zoo
Construction of a new Zoo has now begun, but for now it is here - in the city center.


A story about a walk through the Zoo here:

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We walked along the arc of Alexander Park, and came out to the Neva and Dobrolyubov Ave.
Just a year ago, here, not far from Birzhevoy Bridge, the institute’s buildings stood Giprokhim with a “chemical” panel.
Giprokhim

But the buildings were demolished and the “Embankment of Europe” complex is being built on this site...
Let's walk along Dobrolyubova Avenue from Birzhevoy to Tuchkov Bridge.

Prince Vladimir Cathedral. 1789 arch. Rinaldi.

Fountain opposite the cathedral Sports Palace "Yubileiny""


Petrovsky Stadium located at Tuchkov Bridge, on Petrovsky Island.
Matches take place here Zenit, During these hours, traffic stops...


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Neva fountains at night


I was born on the Petrograd side,
I need meetings with her like bread,
Everything here is close to me, everything is clear to me:
The bends of the beloved Peter and Paul Fortress,
The Neva Current, a labyrinth of courtyards...

I could wander here until sunset...
The great city of Petrov began
Once upon a time on these very shores...

http://walkspb.ru/ulpl/kamennoostr_pr.html
And Wikipedia
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Instead of a certificate
Petrogradsky district

The number of residents of the district as of October 14, 2010 was 130 417 people, including the working population 63%, retirement age 24%, children and adolescents - 13%.
In terms of population, it is the smallest of the urban areas, but not in importance.
We remember that our city began here, in addition, many important objects for the city are located here.

There are 51 cultural institutions in the area, including: Museum of City History (Peter and Paul Fortress), Lenfilm film studio, TV studio, Planetarium, Theater Baltic House, St. Petersburg Music Hall, Leningrad Zoo. Botanical Garden, D.K. them. Lensovet, Leningrad Youth Palace, Museum of Artillery, Museum of Political History.
The two largest city parks are Central Park of Culture and Culture and Primorsky Victory Park.

The largest medical centers are located in the region world significance: 1st Medical University named after. Academician I.P. Pavlov, Research Institute of Experimental Medicine, Research Institute of Children's Infections, Institute of Human Brain of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Research Institute of Influenza of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences.
There are also higher education institutions in the area: St. Petersburg GUITMO, LETI, Chemical-Pharmaceutical Academy, Military Space Academy named after. Mozhaisky, Nakhimov School, Cadet Corps named after. Peter the Great.

Located in the Petrogradsky district 5 Orthodox churches and the only Muslim one in the city mosque.
There are many in the area sports facilities, including 7 stadiums: Petrovsky, Yubileiny, SKA and others; 8 swimming pools, 2 sports palaces, 14 indoor tennis courts, 2 yacht clubs, 6 rowing clubs, 2 equestrian centers.
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